These shacks, sheds, and cafes put together fish and chips and seafood directly off the boat, to the pride of our coast-strolling, seaside-loving tipsters
Mon 8 Jul 2019 06.30 BST Last modified on Tue nine Jul 2019 10.47 BST
River Exe Cafe
Accent on estuary … the River Exe Cafe floats on a special moored barge near the mouth of the Exe at Exmouth. Photograph: Ed Schofield/The Observer
Winning tip: River Exe Cafe, Exmouth, Devon
Bobbing up and down inside the center of a solar-kissed Devon estuary, the River Exe Cafe is a actual gem. You can attain it easily by way of public shipping: educate to Exmouth then a ship (Puffin Water Taxi from the jetty, £5 go back), or you may kayak over. Once there, you’re treated to the very great that the West Country can provide, with quality mains beginning at £15. Don’t leave with out trying the crisp local ciders and the most up to date mussels caught at the river beneath. All this to the gentle sensation of the waves as boats drift through.
It takes a few attempt to attain the Isle of Canna, where the tiny population is extremely outnumbered by means of seabirds. With simplest a handful of homes scattered around the deep harbour, it changed into a pleasure to find out Café Canna, a white cottage wherein cook Gareth seems pinnacle-pleasant food from breakfast to dinner the use of produce directly from the ocean, hills and network polytunnel. After a strenuous stroll to peer puffins, we found it tough to pick out between lobster salad, crab linguine, mackerel tacos, rabbit stew, wild garlic, and pea risotto, whiskey and honey ice cream and a fudgy tart tatin. At the stop of the harbour at Tobermory, a small white-painted concrete field – as soon as the ferry terminal for the quick crossing among Tobermory and Kilchoan at the Ardnamurchan peninsula – has been changed into the award-prevailing Cafe Fish. Its halibut comes from nearby (in sea miles) Gigha, the scallops and lobster from the Sound of Mull. Crisp goujons of fried fish trapped among thick slices of homebaked brown bread give new that means to a fish finger sandwich. If supplies of nearby langoustines, crabs or mussels from the other facet of Mull run out, chef Liz will summon more from her fisher circle of relatives for the eating place’s next sitting. The East Pier smokes its very own awesome, domestically caught seafood from a tiny kitchen on the harbour wall – any nearer and also you’d be in very bloodless water. You devour at the roof – the lobster, crab and fats chips – and assist your self to crisp New Zealand sauvignon and neighborhood beer from the refrigerator. It receives busy whilst the sun’s out, but strive consuming there inside the bloodless, with the wind-whipped spray on your face, for an true taste of salt-lined Scotland.
We spotted this place up on the road at the same time as strolling at the seashore in Whitburn and seeking out a fish and chip shop. We walked it perhaps no longer looking forward to an awful lot. But it grew to become out to be the maximum delightful marvel. We had “bare fish and chips” (cooked in a parcel without batter) from a preference of cod, haddock and skate. Lindisfarne oysters had been £eight.Ninety five for half of a dozen. It became February but the climate changed into mild and sunny and consuming fresh fish at the decking location within the sunshine gave us the feeling of being in southern Europe as opposed to via the North Sea. On the way out we stopped at the wet fish counter and stocked up on shellfish and right old-style cod roe.